Mexico City itinerary: 4 days for a first visit

Mexico City is one of the largest cities in the world, built on the bed of a drained lake at an altitude of about 2,240 metres. It has an Aztec capital under its main square, a colonial centre on top of that, and a modern city of parks, galleries and restaurants around both. Four days is enough for the main sights and the food, and the best way to see it is to give each day to one part of the city.

Take the first day gently. The altitude makes some visitors tired and breathless, so drink water, go easy on alcohol and sleep well. The city is also at its best in the morning, when the air is clear and the light is soft.

Before you go: the short version

• How long: four days for a first visit. Five or six lets you add a day trip to Puebla or Cuernavaca, or the pyramids at Tula.
• Where to stay: Roma Norte or Condesa for leafy streets, restaurants and cafes; the historic centre for the monuments, though it empties and is quieter after dark; Polanco for upmarket hotels and museums.
• From the airport: the airport is east of the centre. The metro, taxis and ride-hail cars all go to the centre in about 30 to 60 minutes depending on traffic. Use official airport taxis or an app. See airport to city.
• Getting around: the metro, the Metrobús and ride-hailing, plus walking within each neighbourhood. More in the Mexico travel guide.
• Book ahead: Casa Azul, the Frida Kahlo museum, which sells timed entry, and a trip to Teotihuacán if you want a guide.

Day 1: The historic centre

Morning. Start at the Zócalo, the vast main square, flanked by the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace, where Diego Rivera's murals of Mexican history line the stairwell. Next to the cathedral are the excavated remains of the Templo Mayor, the main temple of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, with a museum of the objects found there. This is where the city began, and it is under your feet.

Afternoon. Walk west along Avenida Madero, a pedestrian street, past the Casa de los Azulejos, a palace covered in blue and white tiles, to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, a white marble opera house and arts centre with murals by Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros inside. Cross to the Alameda Central, a leafy park, and rest. For a view over the whole centre, the Torre Latinoamericana, across the road, has an observation deck that on a clear day sees the volcanoes.

Evening. Eat tacos al pastor, pork cooked on a spit with pineapple, the city's signature dish, then head to Plaza Garibaldi, where mariachi bands play for diners and drinkers. It is touristy and lively in the evening and not a place to wander alone late, so take a ride-hail back. If you'd rather a quieter evening, the cantinas of the centre are a good place for a drink and botanas, free snacks that arrive with your order.

Day 2: Chapultepec, Roma and Condesa

Morning. Spend the morning in Chapultepec Park, the city's biggest green space, and its National Museum of Anthropology. It is one of the best museums in the world, covering all of Mexico's ancient civilisations, with the Aztec Sun Stone as its centrepiece. Two or three hours is enough for the highlights. Afterwards, walk up the hill to Chapultepec Castle, once the home of emperors and presidents, which has a museum of history and good views over the city.

Afternoon. Walk or ride to Roma Norte, a neighbourhood of Art Nouveau mansions, bookshops, cafes and street art. Have a late lunch at a market stall or a restaurant. Plaza Río de Janeiro has a copy of Michelangelo's David, and the Mercado Roma is a food hall with regional cooking. Continue to Condesa, next door, to walk around Parque México and Parque España, shady parks where Mexicans walk their dogs and read.

Evening. This is the part of town for dinner, and you will not have to look far. Try tacos, tamales, mole, chilaquiles and elote (grilled corn with mayonnaise, cheese and chilli). Mezcal bars are easy to find, and the best are small ones where the staff will explain what they pour. Book on weekends, as the area fills up.

Day 3: Teotihuacán

Teotihuacán is about an hour northeast of the city by car or bus. The pyramids are among the largest built in Mexico before the arrival of the Spanish, and the city that surrounded them was one of the biggest in the world by about the year 500. Go in the morning, when it is cooler and quieter, and wear a hat and sun cream since there is little shade.

Morning. Leave early for the site. Walk the Avenue of the Dead, a long processional road through the ancient city, to the Pyramid of the Moon and the larger Pyramid of the Sun. Climbing is restricted at some pyramids; the rules change, so check at the entrance. The Temple of the Feathered Serpent and its carved heads are at the southern end.

Afternoon. Have lunch at one of the restaurants near the site, many of them in caves, and return to the city in the afternoon. Some tours include a visit to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe on the way back, one of the most visited Catholic shrines in the world.

Evening. Rest, then eat close to your hotel. After a long day of walking and heat, a simple meal of tacos and a cold drink will do.

Day 4: Coyoacán and Xochimilco

Morning. Coyoacán is a village the city swallowed, a colonial neighbourhood to the south with cobbled streets, colourful houses and two plazas, Jardín Centenario and Plaza Hidalgo. Visit Casa Azul, the blue house where Frida Kahlo was born and lived, and now a museum of her paintings and belongings. Buy your ticket for a timed slot in advance, as they sell out.

Afternoon. Eat in the Coyoacán market, where tostadas, quesadillas and fresh fruit waters are served from long counters, and try the churros and ice cream in the plaza. Afterwards take a ride to Xochimilco, about 30 to 45 minutes south, where colourful boats called trajineras are poled along the old canals of the Aztec farming gardens. Groups hire a boat for a couple of hours, bringing food and drinks or buying from the boats that float alongside, including musicians. Agree the price and the time before you step on.

Evening. Return to Roma or Condesa for a last night. For a goodbye meal, try a modern Mexican restaurant, where chefs reinterpret the traditional dishes of the regions, or a simple taqueria. Walk off dinner in Parque México.

With more time

• Puebla: about two hours southeast by bus, known for its colonial centre, the cuisine of mole poblano, and ceramics.
• Mexico City's other museums: the Museo Soumaya, the Museo Tamayo, the Franz Mayer, and the University City murals, part of a World Heritage site.
• Further on: Oaxaca is an hour's flight or a long bus ride, and it fits the 12-day route in the Mexico travel guide.

Where to stay

• Roma Norte and Condesa: the best bases for a first visit, with walkable streets, restaurants, cafes and good transport. Rooms and apartments are plentiful.
• Historic centre: convenient for the sights and the metro, but quiet and less lively after dark.
• Polanco: a polished neighbourhood of embassies, galleries and high-end shops, close to Chapultepec.
• Coyoacán: a calm village feel, far from the centre, better for a second visit.

Groups of four to six often do well with an apartment in Roma or Condesa, which gives you a kitchen and a shared room. See where to stay with a group.

Getting around

The metro is fast and crowded at rush hour, and some carriages are reserved for women and children. The Metrobús runs on dedicated lanes along main avenues. Ride-hailing apps are the easiest way to get between neighbourhoods in the evening, especially after dark. Taxis hailed on the street are best avoided; ask your hotel to order one. Keep your phone and bag close on the metro and in crowds, and carry only what you need for the day. Traffic is heavy at all hours, so allow plenty of time. Drink bottled or filtered water, and eat where the food is cooked in front of you and the queue is busy.

Planning Mexico City as a group

Mexico City is easy for groups: tables are large, food is shared, and ride-hail cars take four. Book Casa Azul and Teotihuacán early and for everyone at once, since both are the sort of thing that sells out or leaves one person behind. Decide in advance who wants the pyramids day, which is early and tiring, and who wants a slow morning. Cash is common at markets and for tips, so keep the shared costs, such as the drivers, tickets and dinners, in one place, rather than working out who paid for what.

What to pack

Layers, because the days are warm and the evenings at altitude can be cool, even in the dry season. Comfortable shoes with grip for cobbles and pyramid steps, sun cream and a hat for Teotihuacán, and a light rain jacket from May to October, when afternoon storms are common. Bring a small bag that closes and a refillable bottle. The city break packing list covers the rest.