Bangkok itinerary: 3 days for a first visit

Three days is the right amount of time for a first visit to Bangkok. It is enough for the great temples on the river, a long evening of street food in Chinatown, and a day in the modern city of malls, parks and rooftop views. Bangkok is huge, hot and loud, and it rewards a plan that works with the weather rather than against it: be out early, rest in the middle of the day, and eat late.

This plan keeps each day in one part of the city, and uses the river and the Skytrain to skip the traffic, which is the main thing that spoils a day here. If you have a fourth day, a trip to the ruins at Ayutthaya is the classic choice.

Before you go: the short version

• How long: three full days, plus a fourth for Ayutthaya or a floating market.
• Where to stay: near a Skytrain or river-boat stop. Riverside for views and ferries; Silom or Sukhumvit for restaurants and transport; the old city near Phra Athit for a village feel.
• From the airport: from Suvarnabhumi, the Airport Rail Link runs into the city in about 30 minutes. From Don Mueang, take a bus, a taxi or the train line. See from the airport to the city.
• Getting around: the BTS Skytrain, the MRT subway, river boats, taxis and ride-hailing. More in the Thailand travel guide.
• Book ahead: a dinner with a view, a cooking class and any tour out of the city. Check times and book ahead for the Grand Palace, which has a strict dress code.

Day 1: The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun

Morning. Be at the Grand Palace as it opens, before the heat and the crowds. This is the old royal complex on the river, a compound of gilded spires, glittering murals and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Dress properly: shoulders and knees covered, and no see-through clothes. Check times and book ahead, as the palace can close for ceremonies. If a man outside tells you the palace is closed today and offers an alternative, ignore him; walk to the gate and ask the staff.

Afternoon. Walk south to Wat Pho, the temple of the giant reclining Buddha, 46 metres long and covered in gold leaf, with mother-of-pearl feet. The grounds are also the home of traditional Thai massage, and many people book a session here to rest tired legs. Take the short cross-river ferry from the Tha Tien pier to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, whose central tower is covered in porcelain and is best seen from the water at sunset. The steep stairs are worth the climb.

Evening. Take a river boat up the Chao Phraya, among the barges and long-tail boats, and watch the skyline change colour. For dinner, there are rooftop restaurants on the river or noodle shops in Phra Nakhon. If you prefer something relaxed, the Khao San Road area, near Phra Athit, has street food, bars and backpackers; it is loud, which suits some people and not others.

Day 2: Chinatown, the flower market and the river

Morning. Take the river boat or the MRT to Chinatown. Wat Traimit, the temple of the Golden Buddha, a solid gold statue about three metres tall, sits at the edge of the district. Then walk through Sampeng Lane, a narrow covered market of fabric, buttons, sweets and toys, and into Talat Noi, a quieter old quarter of shophouses, street art and a small shrine to Chinese deities beside the river.

Afternoon. Rest in the heat. A cafe, a massage or a swim is the best use of two hours. Later, walk to Pak Khlong Talat, the flower market, which sells garlands, orchids and marigolds around the clock, and is at its prettiest in the evening. ICONSIAM, a big riverside mall, is a short boat ride across the water and has an air-conditioned food court of regional Thai dishes.

Evening. Come back to Yaowarat Road, Chinatown's main street, as the lights come on and the food stalls take over the pavement. This is Bangkok at its best. Try grilled seafood, noodle soup, roast duck, fried oyster omelette, black sesame dumplings and a mango with sticky rice. Go with an appetite and a plan to share, as portions are small and the point is to taste many things. Carry small notes and cash, and take a taxi or boat home late.

Day 3: Siam, Jim Thompson and Lumphini

Morning. Visit Jim Thompson House, a compound of traditional teak houses beside a canal in the middle of the city, built by an American silk entrepreneur who vanished in Malaysia in 1967. Tours are guided; check times and book ahead. It is a quiet change after the temples. Then take the Skytrain to Siam, the shopping district.

Afternoon. Siam Square and the malls around it are the city's air-conditioned living rooms, with department stores, food courts and cinemas. MBK, the older multi-storey mall, is a maze of phone stalls and souvenir shops where bargaining is expected. On a weekend, take the Skytrain north to Chatuchak Weekend Market, an enormous market of thousands of stalls, which is wonderful, hot and best done in the morning.

Evening. Walk through Lumphini Park at dusk, when the heat eases and the paths fill with joggers, tai chi groups and monitor lizards sunning by the lake. Then eat in Sukhumvit, a long avenue of restaurants of every kind, and go up to a rooftop bar for a sunset or night view of the towers. Dress codes apply at the smarter ones; the view is the point.

With more time

• A fourth day: Ayutthaya, the old capital, is about an hour and a half north by train or van, with ruined temples and brick stupas that you can cycle between. Go early and avoid the midday sun.
• A floating market or the railway market: Damnoen Saduak and Maeklong are popular and touristy, but a fine half day for the boats.
• Further on: Chiang Mai in the north and the islands in the south. The Thailand travel guide has a 14-day route.

Where to stay

• Riverside: the long bend of the Chao Phraya, with views, river boats and the old city a short ride away. Some of the best places to wake up in Bangkok.
• Silom and Sathorn: central, with Skytrain and subway links, offices by day and restaurants at night.
• Sukhumvit: the longest strip of restaurants, bars and transit stations, practical for first-timers and groups.
• Phra Athit and the old city: closer to the temples, with a village feel but fewer train links.

For a group, a serviced apartment with several bedrooms often works well. See where to stay with a group.

Getting around

Traffic in Bangkok is famously slow, so avoid driving and use rails and water where you can. The BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway are fast, cool and clear, and a rechargeable card or tapping a contactless bank card makes them easy. The Chao Phraya Express boat runs along the river and stops at many of the main sights. Taxis and ride-hailing suit short rides; ask for the meter, or use an app so the fare is agreed. Tuk-tuks are a fun ride for ten minutes and rarely a bargain: agree the price first and decline offers of tours from strangers.

The heat is the main challenge. Drink water often, take a break from midday to mid-afternoon, and use the air-conditioned malls and cafes as resting places. In the rainy months, showers come in the afternoon and clear quickly.

Planning Bangkok as a group

Bangkok is easy for a group on the ground and harder when plans pull in different directions. Decide as a group which day is the palace and temples, and set one meeting time and place, as the city is too big to find each other by wandering. Book the cooking class, a rooftop dinner or an evening boat for everyone at once. Street food is cash-heavy, and it is easy to lose track of who bought what, so keep the shared costs in one place.

What to pack

Light, loose clothes that dry quickly, plus one outfit that covers your shoulders and knees for the palace and temples. Wear shoes that are easy to slip on and off, since you will remove them at temples. Bring sunscreen, a hat, a refillable bottle, insect repellent and a small umbrella or rain jacket. A thin scarf or shawl does double duty as a cover-up and as protection from the cold air-conditioning. The packing list for a city break covers the rest.